Stuller Settings Catalog

If you are a member of the verified section of the ArtCam forum I have uploaded a selection of Stuller settings that can be downloaded and added to the component library. The link to the download and the original post is located here at the ArtCam Forum . You can also use this link to  Download the settings too. Afterwords, just go to ArtCam files/component libraries/Settings and add this folder, then do a rescan and they will be available to import. Here is a picture of all 18 settings.

 Stuller Settings

These make a nice presentation to add to your finished ArtCam projects. You will still need to scale the settings to fit the required stone size you need. The setting numbers are the catalog numbers from the Stuller findings catalog to make for easy ordering of the part. Here is number 383 for example used as the center head for project 2. 

 

Enjoy the download.

Project 2 Step 5

Step 5

In this section I am going to create the engagement ring by duplicating the wedding band model and then editing the vectors. This is a very quick way to produce this ring. I can do this by drawing a rectangle vector where I want to merge low 1.5mm the center of the ring for a peg head to be soldered on. I will also ungroup the vectors to remove the unwanted vectors and then regroup only the vectors I need.

Merge Low Center Section

Project 2 Step 4

Step 4

In this section I am going to create the milligrain beads to place on the outside edge of the ring. These beads are .4mm in diameter and spaced .15mm apart. They are also doomed at 45 degrees. This spacing works well because they are still close enough to each other for a pleasing effect and yet far enough apart to allow the mill to cut between each one without damage or distorting  the beads.  I will offset the shadow box .4mm and edit that box to get the line that I can paste the beads on to evenly. After that I will apply the shape editor (F12) to all the vectors I have drawn to build the finished wedding band from the blank. 

Milligrain Beading

The Milligrain and Wedding Band Completion Video

Project 2 Step 3

Step 3

In this section I am going to make the beads for setting the stones and the recessed shadow box around the diamonds. I have selected .6mm as the diameter of the beads. I place the first one in position and then holding down the control key and hitting C then V to copy and paste a new bead. Using the arrow keys I then move the new bead into position. The zoom button also allows for great accuracy in placing these beads into their proper position. The shadow box is created by editing a rectangle around the stones/beads closely and then offsetting by .4mm. I have found a .4mm space allows for easy polishing around the beads.

Beads and Shadow Box Video

 

Project 2 Step 2

Step 2

In this section I am going to make the vectors for the diamonds. I will make the first stone at 2.0mm then offset that stone larger by .15mm. I offset the stone because we need a tolerance for stone size variations  and to make sure they do not touch each other when setting the finished ring. It also serves as a guide to align adjacent stones. I  then select both circles by holding down the shift key and clicking each one till highlighted and then copy and paste a second set of circles. Using the left arrow key and the zoom button I then align the outside circles to each other. By selecting both sets of these now aligned circles and hitting the F9 key I will accurately center the pair. I do this because we have an even number of stones and therefore there is no stone centered in the ring. 

I then continue to create each stone one at a time, offset the .15mm and align them up until all required stones are completed. I will only do half the ring because I will mirror the rest of the design later. 

Stone Vectors

 Stone Vectors Video

Project 2 Ladies Milligrain Wedd Set

Step One

In this design I am going to make a milligrain engagement ring with a matching wedding band. The engagement ring has ten tapered diamonds with five on each side of the center stone. It is designed to hold a peg head for the center diamond. The wedding band has 12 tapered diamonds. All diamonds are bead or micro pave set with a shadow box. I am going to design the wedding band first and then duplicate and edit the model to create the engagement ring. The milligrain beads are designed to be large and spaced so that during the milling process they are cut without distortion. Here are the specifications for the project.

Finger size is 6
Wedd Band Diamonds are:
4 at 2.0mm; 2 at 1.8mm; 2 at 1.7mm; 2 at 1.5mm; 2 at 1.3mm
Engagement Ring Diamonds are:
2 at 2.0mm; 2 at 1.8mm; 2 at 1.7mm; 2 at 1.5mm; 2 at 1.3mm

I am going to create a new project after opening ArtCam Jewelsmith and then click on models. I will select the tapered square from the shank library and select size 6. I will input the following values in the boxes. I picked these values by comparing other similar ring styles. The 4.5mm Top Width and the 3.0mm Top Thickness are clearly the most important choices.

I am then going to edit the cross sections by straightening the sides and adding a little half round shape to the top of each. I do this by creating a rectangle that will serve as a guide. The values I chose for the guides were because I liked the flow and for no other reason. I will then rebuild the ring blank. I will then edit the profile curve to bring in the sides of the ring that fits between the fingers. This should be about 1.8mm for comfort on the hand. After editing the profile section I reset the relief and resweep the ring to create the final ring blank that I will use to place the diamonds and milligrain beads on. Lets see the video for the ring blanking process.

Creating the Ring Blank Video

Project 1 Step 3

Micro Pave

I am now going to create the vectors for the micro pave section of the ring. Again I am only going to do one quarter of the ring because I will mirror the other sections into place. This means one center diamond with eight diamonds on the side. I will begin by offsetting the top ring rail to the right by .6mm which will define our outside wall. We continue to offset the resulting lines as we defined in the specifications above. That is .25mm for the next wall, ( I will also offset .65mm twice here to give me a center line) this equals the 1.3mm for the diamond which includes the required spacing, and lastly another .25mm for the other inner wall. These lines will serve as guides to help layout the diamonds.

I will then make the first center diamond and place it into place. This will be followed by copy and pasting, then moving the remaining diamonds into position. I will then create the micro pave prong and position it where it belongs. I will do this by zooming in to judge the placement. I will then copy and paste, (Control  C & Control V), the remaining beads into position. You must remember the accuracy is incredible and far superior to any work performed by hand. ArtCam allows you to work in this fashion and achieve outstanding results in very short order. I will then define the shadow box around the diamonds and subtract that area .5mm from the surface of the ring. I will then raise the beads .6mm with a 50 degree dome added. The rest is mirroring the ring to complete it. 

 Rendering the Ring

In this final section I will create the gemstone vectors from the model and then create the gemstones to produce a rendering. This is done by selecting the vectors in the 2D view that represent the gemstones and having ArtCam calculate the stones sizes from the vectors. I will then select all the new gemstone vectors and quickly create the gems from there.

 

Micro Pave Considerations

The following pages are a detour from the project so I can share with you the general procedure I use for micro pave. The first realization is the diamonds coming from your diamond dealer will vary in diameter size from .09mm to 1.1mm. So what I do is create the stone diameter at 1.1mm then offset larger by .10mm. I then use the larger diameter circle (1.3mm) as a guide to line up my gemstones. I construct it this way so that any stone of approximate size will fit into the mounting and stay tight.

The prong diameter size is .5mm and now drop a guide line touching the top of the 1.3mm circles. This is the location for the prongs as shown below. After laying out the top row you can mirror to place the bottom prongs in position. 

Raising the Beads
 
I then give the micro pave beads a dome angle between 50 and 80 degrees and a height of .6mm. (In some instances a higher dome angle can be used to shrink the amount of metal showing). The tapered shaped of the bead allows for the small variance between stones. I set these diamonds with a hart bur by the way, by back cutting into the first bead pair and then beading down and over with the second diagonal bead. The common prong is really just an illusion. I then continue in the same direction with the same technique. If I want a shadow box around the beads I create the box first and then subtract that area down .5mm. Now, lets continue with the project at hand...

Project 1 Step 2

In this next step I will begin by creating the center stone vectors. Some of the issues we have to consider have to do with the spacing between the stones. There are many factors required to produce a micro pave or channel ring correctly. I will offset each stone larger by .15mm to assure the stones will set closely but still fit into the space we have designed. Remember, when we channel set the gemstones down into the finished mounting, the diameter of the ring becomes smaller, thereby creating a smaller space in the metal to set the stones in. We need to allow for that difference when designing our pieces. I have created each stone one by one, performed the offset, and moved them into position individually. Lastly I grouped the stones together. I will only build half the ring as I can mirror the sections to complete the model. The following video will demonstrate this process.

The Channel Walls

I am are now going to offset the center stones inward to create the seats for the center stones; and then draw the outline for the channel including the pointed end of the channel. I will move the cross sections upward to keep the viewing area clear. I will use color in this step to allow me to isolate the sections and vectors I want to control; and merge low the seats or underbezels for the gemstones. I will also keep the side wall of the channel  straight. It is better to offset the center and create a thicker seat because we can drill out and enlarge this hole in the metal easily. It is also necessary to reduce the width of the channel by 5%. This will equal a 10% reduction in the channel width because it will happen on both sides. We will begin the next video by drawing and editing the channel. 

Project 1 Gents Ruby and Diamond Ring

In this first project we are going to design a simple gents ruby and diamond ring to get familiar with the tools in ArtCam Jewelsmith. I will be designing in ArtCam 2009. 

Gents Ruby and Diamond Ring

 Step One

In this project I am going to design a gents mounting to hold nine channels set round stones and a total of 34 small round diamonds bead set with common prongs. There are 17 stones on each side of the channel. The specifications are as follows:

Finger size is 10
Round Center Gemstone Sizes are:
3 at 2.5mm
2 at 2.25mm
2 at 2.0mm
2 at 1.75mm

Round Side Diamonds are: 34 at 1.0mm

One of the great things about ArtCam Jewelsmith is the fact many pieces can be completed in a number of different ways. What follows is one technique to produce this piece and not necessarily the only way to achieve this. This piece was completed in 14K white gold and set with diamond cut rubies for the 9 center stones and 34 diamonds in the beaded sides. It was milled in wax, cast, and sold to a purchasing customer. Total design time is about 30 minutes.

Other considerations to note is the ring has a half rounded style and shape to the entire surface. Also a minimum amount of metal is desired for the channel section. Round under bezels are also desired for the channel section.  

Picture of Finished Ring Showing Under Bezels

 The Thinking Process
 
I am first going to create a new project in ArtCam, then select and build the tapered flat shank from the model library. I will then edit that model to fit the specifications desired. I need to figure out the approximate dimensions for the finished ring. To determine the top width of this ring at the widest section it is necessary to add the stone size diameters (plus a tolerance) with the thickness of the desired walls for the channel and the beaded sections. This is as follows:

2.5/2 +.15 for the center stone (half the diameter of the middle stone plus a .15 tolerance). This equals 1.4mm
.7 for the channel wall
.25 for the first inside wall of the beaded section
1.0 + .10 times 2 for the beaded stone; this equals 1.3mm
.25 for the second side wall of the beaded section
.6 for the outside wall
See following picture for better understanding....

This equals 4.5mm for one half of the ring, so times 2 is 9.0mm ring width. I like a 50 % taper from top to bottom so the bottom of the shank will be 4.5mm wide. I already know the bottom thickness needs to be 1.5mm. Lastly, I need the height for the top of the ring. Since, 61% of  largest stone of 2.5mm is 1.525 and the gems will be channel set at least .5mm down from the top. The ring needs to be at least 2.50mm thick to keep the stone off the finger. I will edit the cross sections to also achieve a 1mm flat edge on the side of the ring. The rest of the profile for the ring will be half rounded.

 Making The Blank

Since we have all the required information to create the shank as a blank lets see a video for this first step. The following video is going to start after I have selected "Create New Project" from the ArtCam opening menu. I am using ArtCam 2009. Also, I normally use a resolution of at least 40, but because of the video recording software I have selected only 30 resolution to reduce the load on my computer.